Friday April 25th, 2003
Scott and I are planning on meeting at the really good beef jerky stand in Olancha, on the 395 at one thirty or so. Neither of us have cell phones, and Scott had never been to the area before so the plan was a bit sketchy to begin with. Despite this, both of us got to the jerky stand just fine, a bit late, but we got there safely. This was the first time we’d seen each other in over a year or so, Scott doesn’t change though, he just seems to be jovial, no matter what. We stood around and BS’d for a while in the parking lot we decided it was too windy there and we needed to get a move on to the campsite. More on the wind later.
We were planning to leave Scott’s car in the backpacker’s parking lot in Lone Pine for the weekend. We turned on our radios to talk shit to each other on the drive to LP, which took about half an hour. Once we drop off his car we start heading to Death Valley. Along the way we stopped off at the Death Valley visitor center, where this “big-boned” girl tried picking up on Scott, unsuccessfully, it was fun to watch though.We tried asking them about directions and conditions but really didn’t get too much useful information, so we got back in the truck and kept moving.
When we arrived in Death Valley and got our first sure view of Telescope Peak, it looked quite packed with snow near the top. We had been hoping that by late April most if not all the snow would have been gone, but we had no such luck. We also noticed the VERY WINDY conditions had followed us up to this point, but we hoped that this was just because we were in the valley itself and it would clear up the higher we got, we’d find out otherwise later in the day. We continued driving on through Death Valley, there’s quite a bit of dead beauty out there and it’s very quiet; well except for the wind that is. It is really howling too.
We got to the dirt road that leads up to Mahogany Flats campground and passed these really odd looking cones on the left side of the road. We stop to check them out and find out that they are old charcoal kilns that the miners in the area would use. After a hundred or more years of non-use you can still smell the burning wood in there, very cool place, well maintained and interesting to check out. After checking these out for awhile we figure that we’ve screwed around enough, it’s getting on to about 4 pm and we still need to get up the road a bit further to the campsite. That wind is still going, very loud and very chilling.
Setting up camp at Mahogany Flats was easy enough, it’s an OK campground – pretty small, I think there were less than ten spots, first come first served and the sites are a bit too close together, but overall it’s all right. The wind has not letup yet though, and we are bundled up like mad, even though the sun is still up and this is DEATH VALLEY for god’s sake, why are we wearing sweatshirts, jackets and gloves?? At this point we just hunker down, eat some dinner and try to hide from the wind. Around nine we got in the tent and broke out the Uno cards. We don’t really need to go into who won and who lost, I’ll just leave it with this, Scott needs practice.
Saturday
We really didn’t sleep too well, what with the hurricane force winds outside and all, but Saturday morning came around regardless. I cooked up some damn fine oatmeal for breakfast; we packed our shit up and stepped off for Telescope Peak. From our campsite we have about 7 miles to go and around three or four thousand feet of elevation gain to go. The wind had thankfully died down, but it was still chilly so we are both wearing our jackets for the first hour or so. During that first hour we only covered about a mile, so yeah, we aren’t setting any land speed records at the moment. Around the one mile point we turn a corner and can see the peak for the first time today. From this close we see it’s definitely snow packed, but at least the wind is gone.
Another mile or so into the hike we find ourselves at a crossroads. The path to the left looks like it goes in a straight line to the peak, while the path to the right looks like it takes a more roundabout way to get there. The problem with the path on the left is that there is a moderately sized hill named Bennett Peak in between us and Telescope peak itself, but it doesn’t look too bad from this side so we decide to go up and over it and get to TP all that much sooner. At this point Scott is doing ok, he’s moving slowly but he’s doing all right overall. I just don’t think he had a lot of gas in his tank that day because he started to run out soon after we hit the top of Bennett.
Near the top we had a good long break, ate some GORP and relaxed in the sun. At this point we had already gone over a few hundred feet of snow crossings, and as we got closer to the peak we saw more and more snow, so we knew we had a LONG way to go. So we start heading down Bennett and were moving along quite well until we hit the actual final uphill section of the peak. Here is where the going got tough and each step made it even tougher because the further we got, the higher we got, the higher we got, the more snow there was, the more snow there was, the harder it was to take steps. We struggled and fought against the snow but it always won. Every step took about 4 times as much effort as a normal step at sea level on a sidewalk.
As we got higher and higher the snow got to about knee deep, and almost every step we took our feet would plunge down all the way through to the ground because the snow was softening up in the afternoon. This meant that with each step we would have to extricate ourselves from this foot or two of snow and replant that foot in more snow that we would have to step out of in a second, each step getting our socks, feet and shoes a bit wetter and heavier as well, all in all it was very slow going. Along the way we threw more than a small number of snowballs, mainly at each other though most of them with terrible aim because we were getting tired.
Nearing two in the afternoon, we see the peak… or at least what we are pretty sure is the peak. Scott’s a bit behind me so I am the first to realize the heartbreaking news. This isn’t the real peak, yet. Telescope is shaped slightly like a table top and we were at the northern end of it, the real peak is on the southern end. It’s only a quarter mile or so between the two points on the peak and it’s pretty clean of snow since there’s usually quite a bit of sun and wind at the top. It was just hearbraking that you have your heart set on seeing the peak and relaxing for awhile at the top but then realizing you’re not there yet. Either way, we get to the real peak, finally, andwhat an amazing view. We read some of the old summit logs, looked out at nearly all of California, from Shasta in the north to the San Bernardino Mountains in the south. It is pretty spectacular to say the least. After a while on the peak and some more GORP we turn around and start what we think will be the easy part, going back to camp for some steaks.
Scott starts off strong; we are heading downhill, it’s a pretty steep downhill and still very heavily packed with snow so we have to watch our steps, but we make good time. After this downhill section we start walking on relatively flat land, and Scott starts to slow down dramatically. We decide to go around Bennett peak on the way back, it was draining to go up and over it on the way out there and I figured that Scott would do better on the flatlands. Unfortunately, what neither of us knew was that the path going around the peak was solidly packed with snow, which is much tougher to deal with than an uphill, this day will just not end. Scott’s condition is starting to scare me the further we get; he’s sort of listless, a little non-responsive and generally looking pretty fucked up. I am afraid he’s going into a low level of shock from the exhaustion he’s experienced today. So I slow down my pace even more, and hope for the best. We have less than two miles to go at this point, and plenty of sun left so we don’t have to hurry.
Those last two downhill miles almost took two hours though. Scott’s not doing all that well, I don’t feel all that super either, that snow was exhausting. But we get back at camp, thank God. We take off our soaking wet boots and socks, start up a fire and sit down. Neither of us brought charcoal so we let the fire die down to embers and Scott grills up the steaks, we eat, have some Smirnoff and relax some more. Scott’s looking a lot better; he just needed to get off his feet and rest up a bit. As it gets dark we hit the tent and fall asleep. I know I slept well that night.
Sunday
We wake up; slowly pack camp after breakfast and head into Lone Pine. We had breakfast at the Sierra Café, it was quite good. At that point we said goodbye, and headed home. He has a seven hour drive ahead of him; I’ve only got four hours of driving. I’ll be asleep before he gets home, that’s a good feeling.
I hope this experience hasn’t scared him off of some good camping trips or any backpacking, because this trip was insanely tough. Overall though it was a very good trip; it was good to see Scott, awesome to see almost all of California from a single point and fun to hit him with snowballs along the way.
Photos from trip, and a couple from an older shooting trip
Movie from trip
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