Jarr,
Eric Good and
I took a three day backpacking trip out to
Thousand Island Lake with a plan to tap the top of
Banner Peak on day two of the trip. We didn’t wind up making it to the top of Banner, not for lack of trying, though. The route to the top, not a path, not even a poorly maintained trail is intensely difficult and is essentially a series of jumps from one rock to another, with half the rocks being loose when you land on them. The good thing was the difficulty of the route was matched by the beauty of the area we were in. Without further ado, here’s the story.
Thursday, October 9th, 2003
After work let out, Eric and I drove to Jarr’s house to pick him up. Jarr threw his gear in the car, he also brought some much appreciated drinks and snacks for the drive and we were off. The plan was to drive up to Grandview campground that night, sleep in or around the car and wake up early on Friday to drive another hour or so north to the Mammoth Lakes ranger station, pick up a permit and get to the trailhead for some backpacking fun. As we got to the town of Big Pine, where the turnoff for Grandview is, we were hungry and realized there is nothing to eat in Big Pine. So we decide to keep traveling up the road to the biggest town in the Owens Valley; Bishop to grab some food.
Bishop is less than ½ hour away from Big Pine so we get there pretty quickly and ate dinner in the coldest Jack in the Box in the world; the thermometer on my watch was reading low in the low 70’s inside that damn restaurant, so we ate quickly and got out of there into the (relatively) warm outdoors. At this point I think we all realized that it would be stupid to drive south again to the original plan’s campsite, since we needed to go north in the morning anyway. So, we figure we can find some desolate area to park the car in and sleep somewhere between Bishop and Mammoth Lakes. The good news is we were right. We turned off the 395 (highway we’d been on since leaving southern California) onto a little highway with a church on it and no streetlights. We found a dirt road a few miles down, located a good place to stash the car and slept soundly until morning came.
Friday
We woke up before sunrise, there were big gravel loading trucks driving up and down the dirt road that we had slept nearby which worked as a very effective alarm clock. After some oatmeal we got back on the road and were at the ranger station by 7:30am, but they didn’t open until 8 and the only ranger there was a fat little prick who wouldn’t issue a permit until they were open. So we took the time to fill up the gas tank, Eric bought a beanie from the Von’s in town before the strike started and we got back to the station right at 8am for our permit. With permit in hand, we got back on the 395 and continued north to Silver Lake and the Rush Creek Trailhead.
When we stepped off on the hike, my pack was just over forty pounds and I think the other two had about equivalent pack weights, though I’m not sure. The first three miles of the hike are intensely steep, without any letup at all; there were few flat spots though we took advantage of each and every one of them. The trailhead starts at about 7000 feet, and by the end of those three miles you are at about 10,000 feet. This works out to an average 19% uphill grade, which was a killer. Up to this point we had passed Lake Agnew, Gem Lake and through Spooky Meadow, into the Ansel Adams Wilderness where we then broke for lunch at a stream where we thought we were at the end of the tough part, HAH.
At this point, Eric and Jarr were both starting to form blisters on their feet. Eric because he hasn’t worn boots in years and Jarr because he had on some socks that didn’t agree with him apparently. Eric starts cutting up some moleskin for Jarr, I relax in my Sling-light and try to figure out why I’m out here hauling all this stupidly heavy gear up a mountain that really could care less about me. We’ve taken a lot of breaks on the way up this point, and this one is the longest of the bunch at about 20 minutes, that uphill really did drain a lot of energy from the batteries.
After lunch we continued on the path, eventually realizing that the INSANE uphill was over and now we are only dealing with terribly crazy uphill/downhill slopes for the next four miles, though once Thousand Island Lake and Banner came into view, it made it all this exertion worthwhile. Along the way we did pass the Clark Lakes, and through some gorgeous Yosemite-esque granite/tree combinations (side note, this area used to be part of Yosemite, but was wanted by the mining companies around the turn of the century, so it was removed from the park by Congress. I don’t mind it at all though, it’s nowhere near as crowded as Yosemite is, matter of fact we had only seen one other person so far today).
So, it’s getting onto about 3pm now and we’ve been hiking for a solid six hours at this point. We are at the East end of the lake; we are planning on camping at the West end, so we still have about two miles to go. Eric’s feet are hurting bad, since he didn’t put any moleskin on his blister points, Jarr’s blisters are doing better but they still hurt and I’m just kinda tired. We take a break at a nice point near the lake, Eric falls asleep on a rock, Jarr walks on a rock path out to one of the islands and after taking some pictures, I followed him out there. We soaked our feet in the cold lake water and relaxed for awhile. Realizing that we only had a few hours of sunlight left, we picked up our packs again and moved on, looking for a campsite.
Along the way we passed one that looked pretty good, it had a fire ring and was near the tree line so there would be some deadfall to burn, plus it wasn’t too close to the trail we were on. The only problem with it is that it was too far away from the base of Banner, where we’d be starting our summit attempt the next morning. So, dead tired, we continued walking towards the West end of the lake and the base of Banner. I had been told there would be quite a few really nice sites in this area, but as worn out as we were, we just didn’t have the energy to get off the trail and look for them, and we just kept on the trail and tried to find something close to it. Eventually, we did find one, it wasn’t anything special, the tents would need to be erected about 2 feet from the trail that people walked on and there was no fire ring, but it was good enough right then so we setup camp. Thankfully we had still only seen one person, a day hiker named Derek who had turned around a couple miles back.
After camp was setup and all the basic chores like gathering water and scrounging some wood were done we started on dinner. Eric couldn’t figure out how to use his can opener, so he had to open his canned food with a knife, while Jarr and I just had dehydrated meals for dinner. The sun set pretty early behind the ridge to our west, but the sky stayed bright for awhile and then the full moon rose which encouraged us to stay up and just relax before trying to fall asleep. The night didn’t get quite as cold as I would have expected for mid-October Sierra highlands, when we hit the tents at around 9 or 10 it was still in the low 40’s or high 30’s. Sitting there, staring up at Banner was quite inspiring; its glaciers glowed in the moonlight, and it’s reflection in Thousand Island Lake was as clear as a mirror. I wanted to make a mental tattoo of this image; I never want to forget how beautiful it was out there.
Saturday
Sometime around 2am I heard footsteps outside the tent. Neither of the other two guys heard it, and I guess Jarr had a little trouble falling asleep after that, sorry Jarr. We never did see it or find any tracks from it, but the footsteps sounded pretty small anyway. We were up with sunrise though a couple hours later, cooked up some quick oatmeal and put together our summit packs with some food, warm clothes and miscellaneous other things that might come in handy and stepped off. Our first goal was North Glacier Pass, the total distance to the peak was about 4 miles and this pass led to Catherine Lake, which was about the halfway point of the hike. From there we would skirt the lake’s south side and travel up to the left of the glacier along the talus field to the saddle between Ritter and Banner, where we would find a route to the top of Banner. By all accounts, a relatively technical day-hike with a lot of rock jumping, we were looking forward to a fun day, at least I was.
We start off good and strong, Jarr and Eric both still have their blisters, but moleskin and duct-tape keep them largely in check. The route up to glacier pass is a huge talus field, there is really no right way up, but I’m sure there are a lot of wrong ways. The rocks are all stable though, so we didn’t have too much to worry about as we jumped from one to the next. This didn’t take too long, once we got to the pass; we saw Catherine Lake, which is a gorgeous alpine lake and is actually quite unnerving to look at. Within feet of the edge of the lake, it drops nearly straight down into some very, very deep and cold water. For some reason, deep water has always made me a bit uncomfortable. I can swim almost all day long, but if I can’t see the bottom of a body of water I don’t like to be near it. Whatever though, it was sunny, a little chilly, we were halfway up the mountain and doing well on time, life is good.
Here comes the tough part. After finding a way up and over to the pass we would take to the Ritter/Banner saddle we start climbing along a very steep talus slope above the glacier. The main problem here is that the talus is unstable, so when trying to take your next step you don’t know if the rock you are stepping onto is solid or if it will slide right down to the glacier. It took us almost 3 hours to travel about one mile, and if you’ve never heard that god awful low frequency rumble that an avalanche, no matter how small, produces, I hope you never do. The source of the sound is nearly impossible to locate, at least it is for me, but it’s something that raises the hairs on your neck in a very primal way. As we approached the saddle that would take us to Banner peak itself, we were still good on time. I had set a turnaround time of no later than 2pm for the summit attempt, to ensure we had plenty of daylight to get back to camp. We still had over an hour left before this deadline and less than a thousand feet of elevation to go.
We were tired though, it was mentally exhausting up to this point, fear does that to you. Jarr and Eric had a couple close calls on the way up to this point and the rock hopping had put a lot of pressure and pain on their blisters. I noticed that my pants had a small tear in them from something I don’t really remember hitting along the way and we decided that today wasn’t going to be the day we hit the summit, so we turned around.
Unfortunately, downclimbing loose talus is just about as difficult as climbing up it and we were tired from a couple long days so we took it relatively slow and safe. On the way down, Jarr and I found a hole in the glacier. We threw some rocks into there to try to figure out how deep it was and to hear the splash when the rock hit the water underneath. I figure (entirely un-scientifically) that the glacier is probably about 10 feet thick, where we were at. When we hit Catherine Lake we took nearly a half hour break just enjoying the view and the afternoon sun’s warmth at about 11,000 feet as our nerves relaxed. Along the way down we were discussing moving our camp a couple miles back towards the trailhead; this would save us time and mileage on the trip back to the car on Sunday which would put us home earlier, plus we might be able to find something with a fire ring. At some point I lost my gloves on the way back to camp, which wasn’t too smart of me. Thankfully the nights weren’t too cold out there, or my hands would not have liked me very much.
After the long hike down, we were back. It had been a terribly exhausting day and to be honest all I wanted to do is sit down and relax for a few hours, this was not to be though, because these other two clowns wanted to move camp, damn them. Jarr and I are pretty fast at tearing down a camp by now; I still have a little advantage in tent takedown time though. Because Eric’s blisters were slowing him down so much he just packed his gear and started to gimp walk out of there as soon as he was done, without waiting for Jarr and me. Once Jarr and I were packed up we followed him, I think this little hike was the toughest portion of the weekend personally, I don’t really know why as it was just a mile or two tops. By the time I caught up to Eric he had found a site, but it wasn’t as good as we were hoping for and I wasn’t about to settle for a mediocre site after busting my ass to find something newer and better. I dropped my pack and moved up the trail, no more than ten minutes of walking later I luckily stumbled into this godsend of a site. It had two fire pits, two tent areas; it was secluded and looked out over Thousand Island Lake right to Banner Peak. It was perfect; we setup camp there, grubbed on some dinner and relaxed around the fire for a couple hours before going to sleep.
Sunday
We set are alarms and woke up at about 5:45am, packed up camp and hiked back to the car. We slogged out to this point after seven hours of hiking on Friday, on Sunday, even as tired as we were we made it back to the car in just over four hours. At the trailhead we cleaned ourselves up a bit, and started the long drive back to Orange County. We didn’t stop at the rope swing off the 168 because there were a bunch of cars already there and it looked a bit crowded, we decided it would be too much of a hassle. That sucked, that rope swing is one of my favorite things to do after a weekend, the Owens River water is refreshingly chilly, but not so cold that you don’t want to jump in. It washes off some of the dirt, stink, grime and oil from a trip and wakes me up for the drive home. What a shame it was crowded.
Epilogue
Overall though, it was a good trip. None of us had seen this section of the Sierra, and we were all amazed with how beautiful it was. There was no one to be seen, except a group of three Marines from Bridgeport rappelling down Banner, a couple other campers around the lake on Saturday and the day-hiker on Friday. We got close to the peak, and found a perfect campsite for the next trip out there, who’s interested?
Album of most of the pics from this trip
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